Button Back Jewelry, Explained: Georgian & Victorian Settings in Lab-Grown Diamonds

What is a button back setting?

A button back is a rounded gold dome fixed behind a gemstone setting, so the stone sits softly and comfortably against the skin instead of poking through with a sharp post or open gallery. It comes from Georgian-era jewellery (1714–1837), when stones were set in closed backs and candlelight did the sparkling. Worn today, it reads instantly as antique — even on a brand-new piece.

What is a cut-down collet?

A cut-down collet is a band of gold wrapped snugly around the stone, with slim vertical ribs pressed against it — the way Georgian jewellers secured diamonds before modern claw prongs existed. Paired with blackened gold (a darkened finish that mimics the aged silver tops of antique jewels), it makes lab-grown diamonds and moissanites glow the way old mine cuts did by candlelight.

How to wear the button back look

Why lab-grown stones suit antique styles

Lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to mined ones — grown above ground instead of dug from it — and moissanite is a brilliant, durable gem in its own right. Both make heirloom-scale Georgian pieces attainable: every Disco Marshmallow piece is handcrafted to order in solid 14K or 18K gold, which is why fine-jewellery craftsmanship here doesn't come with the fine-jewellery markup.

See every button back, collet and riviere piece in one place: shop the Georgian & Victorian collection →

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